How to care for a rabbit: a beginner’s guide

Rabbits are curious, clever and surprisingly expressive: a relaxed rabbit flops onto its side, and a happy one leaps and twists in mid-air. Yet they are also widely misunderstood, often kept alone in a small hutch, fed the wrong food and handled in ways that frighten them. Ask a vet with rabbit experience whenever you are unsure about health, diet or behaviour.

Start with company: rabbits need rabbits

Wild rabbits live in groups, and pet rabbits keep that social instinct. A rabbit living alone can become bored, withdrawn or stressed, even with attentive owners, because people cannot groom it, sleep beside it or read its body language the way another rabbit can. A neutered male and a neutered female often pair well, but any two rabbits need a slow, careful introduction on neutral ground.

Space and daily exercise

A hutch on its own is not enough. Rabbits need to run, hop, dig and stand fully upright. In the UK, the Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund recommends a minimum living space of about 3 m by 2 m and 1 m high. Recommendations vary between organisations, but they share one principle: rabbits should be able to move freely at any time, not only during short sessions out of a cage.

• Constant access: a shelter joined to a run or pen, so they can choose when to rest and when to explore.
• Hiding places: at least one hide per rabbit, ideally with two exits, so nobody gets cornered.
• Safe ground: non-slip flooring indoors; outdoors, protection against rabbits digging out and predators digging in.

Indoors or outdoors?

Both can work. Indoor rabbits need a rabbit-proofed area, with cables, house plants and anything chewable out of reach, and protection from other pets. Outdoor rabbits need a secure, weatherproof shelter, shade in summer, dry bedding and insulation in winter, and protection from foxes, cats and birds of prey. Wherever they live, rabbits cope badly with heat, so a cool, shaded spot is essential.

Diet: mostly hay

• Hay or grass: good-quality hay should make up most of the diet and be available at all times. A common rule of thumb is a pile roughly the size of the rabbit each day.
• Fresh greens: a variety of rabbit-safe leafy greens and herbs every day, introduced gradually.
• Pellets: only a small, measured amount of good-quality rabbit pellets. Muesli-style mixes are generally discouraged, as rabbits pick out the sugary pieces.
• Treats: fruit and root vegetables such as carrot are sugary, so keep them as occasional small treats.
• Water: fresh water every day. Many rabbits drink more readily from a heavy bowl than from a bottle.

Teeth and digestion: what to watch

Rabbit teeth grow throughout life and are worn down by long hours of chewing fibrous food. Without enough hay, they can overgrow and form sharp edges that make eating painful. The gut also needs a steady supply of fibre to keep moving. Learn what normal looks like for your rabbit: a good appetite and plenty of round, dry droppings.

Litter training

1. Watch where your rabbit prefers to go and place a large, low-sided tray there.
2. Use a rabbit-safe litter such as paper pellets, not clumping clay cat litter, and add plenty of hay on top or at one end.
3. Move stray droppings into the tray and clean accidents with an unscented cleaner.
4. Be patient: a few droppings outside the tray, especially in new territory, are normal.

Handling: on their terms

Most rabbits dislike being picked up. To a prey animal, being lifted can feel like being caught, and a frightened rabbit may kick hard enough to injure its spine or fall. Trust grows faster at floor level.

• Sit or lie on the floor and let your rabbit approach and explore you.
• Stroke the forehead and cheeks gently; many rabbits dislike having their feet or belly touched.
• If you must lift your rabbit, for example for a health check, ask your vet to show you a safe, fully supported hold.
• Children should interact while sitting on the floor, with an adult close by.

Neutering: a conversation with your vet

Neutering is commonly recommended for pet rabbits of both sexes. It can make bonding easier, reduce territorial habits such as spraying and prevent unplanned litters, and in females it is often discussed as a way to lower the risk of certain reproductive diseases. Timing, anaesthetic risk and aftercare vary, so discuss it with a vet who treats rabbits regularly.

Grooming and moulting

Rabbits groom themselves and each other, but they cannot vomit, so swallowed fur must pass through the gut. Regular brushing helps, especially during heavy moults, and long-haired breeds need it most days. Check nails, which may need trimming, and look under the tail often: a dirty bottom can attract flies in warm weather and needs prompt veterinary attention.

Enrichment: let rabbits be rabbits

• Digging: a box of soil, sand or shredded paper gives them a safe place to dig.
• Chewing: untreated willow, apple wood or plain cardboard satisfies the urge to chew and spares your furniture.
• Hiding and exploring: tunnels, boxes with two doorways and low platforms to look out from.
• Foraging: scatter greens through hay or use simple puzzle feeders, so food takes some finding.

A simple care checklist

Every day

• Refill hay, give fresh greens and refresh the water.
• Check that your rabbit is eating and producing normal droppings.
• Spot-clean the litter tray and any soiled bedding.
• Allow plenty of time for exercise and calm interaction.
• Look over eyes, nose and bottom for anything unusual.

Every week

• Clean the litter tray and living area thoroughly.
• Brush your rabbit, more often during a moult.
• Check nails, front teeth and body condition.
• Inspect the enclosure, fencing and cables for damage.

What to expect in costs

Rabbits are cheap to buy but not to keep. A proper enclosure often costs more than the rabbits themselves, hay is an ongoing expense over a life that can approach a decade or more, and vaccinations where recommended, neutering and dental care can add up. Treating a rabbit is not necessarily cheaper than treating a cat or dog, so consider insurance or a savings pot.